Bordeaux or Cognac; Where to go for a wine retreat in the French countryside


France has many wine regions, but for the finest vineyards, loveliest sights, and most charming places to stay, it’s hard to beat Bordeaux and Cognac.

Bordeaux: The lowdown

With vineyards occupying more than 120,000 hectares of the region, Bordeaux is the largest wine-growing area in France, but that’s not all you’ll love about it. Its soil, gravelly and sandy in equal measure, has turned the idea of terroir into a near obsession.

It’s the turf where most of France’s claret is produced, although Bordeaux also has a few sweet whites, rosés and sparkling tipples to its resume. Then, of course, every two years, the city hosts the Bordeaux Wine Festival, but even if you miss it, there is no shortage of wine-related tours, walks and events for oenophiles to enjoy this side of France.

Where to bed down

Set by a lake in the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Les Sources de Caudalie is that bucolic hotel where the French art de vivre comes to life. Think a hotel in a blissfully rural setting of manicured vines with a design to match: weathered pantiles, chalky stone walls, rooms with antique furniture and claw-foot bathtubs. The service matches the setting, with charming staff ready to attend to your every need.

But where the hotel really gets it right is the heavenly spa, housed in a large timbered building with 20 treatment rooms, an indoor pool and a steam room. Outside, a heated pool and a barrel-shaped hot tub take place of pride. The hotel is also the birthplace of vineotherapy, which are beauty treatments centered around grape seeds, but the facials and massages are incredibly popular with both locals and out of towners so you want to book them well in advance.

The hotel setting is a bucolic painting come to life

It’s the ultimate French countryside getaway

The spa is an attraction in its own right

Cognac: The lowdown

Cognac is the gateway to the Charente region of southwest France, and the vast vineyards stretching from the town of Cognac to the Atlantic coast is the stuff of travel dreams to explore. It has it all: winemakers, distillers, famed maisons de négoce and cellars where vintages going back a 100 years are stored, making for starry eyed visitors every time.

Then, of course, Cognac also has a lot of history. Its majestic castle, for instance, was the birthplace of one of France’s most illustrious kings, and the House of Martell is a historic site where three centuries of cognac knowledge and know-how is laid bare for you to explore.

Where to bed down

Just a few hundred metres from the centre of Cognac, Hôtel Chais Monnet is the town’s first luxury hotel by French architect Didier Poignant, and the creativity of it- mysterious rather than clean-lined- makes for a swanky bolthole of dark panels, sand-colored floors and uplifting lightness in its blonde and beige oak furniture.

The absolute draw, however, is its brasserie, under which is a semi-underground space where tables are surrounded by towering barrels of ageing brandies make for an otherworldly escape. In more ways than one, the Hôtel Chais Monnet is one of a kind, and if you’re going to Cognac, it’s the place to stay.

The hotel setting

It’s an architectural feat

Cognac’s only Jazz Bar is quite the head turner

About Nimah Koussa

The best part about being a travel writer is bringing cities and destinations to life: their stories, secret addresses, luxurious gems and unique holiday moments. And I have been one for a little more than 10 years. From the best bars and restaurants in different cities of the world to hotels where you can check-in to get away from it all, this Magazine is all about making every trip just a bit more meaningful.

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